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So we're
back and I've been lazy...but here goes.
It's a lazy morning..we must be getting towards the end of the trip, because
there are more lazy mornings. After breakfast, while Franco is getting
ready, the rest of us walk up to the castle to tour the museum of Faliscan
artifacts. The castle is closed. But the sign says that it should be open.
We buzz and miraculously the door opens. I think the two women who work
there keep the door shut so that people won't bother them....
It's a nice castle, almost as much palace as fort. There is a nice central
courtyard surrounded by a two story collonade. We head through the museum
and look at lots of pieces of pottery, tools, cooking utensils, burial
gifts, and other archaeological finds. The Faliscans were in this area
at the same time as the Etruscans and just as the Romans were arriving.
They were influenced by Greek pottery styles and there are several painted
vases and bowls that look Greek. There are several mirrors and earrings
and some metal tools that I can't figure out. One looks like a cheese
grater When Maureen and my parent's catch up with the guide book, it turns
out that it is a cheese grater. After about an hour we are done. Most
of the castle is closed so after an hour we are done.
With Maureen and Franco, we head out (in two cars) for Sutri. We had driven
through this town several times on our way to other places and had been
intrigued by the area. Our first stop is an amphitheater carved out of
a hill. our guide books have some conflicting information...Was this Roman
or Etruscan? it's dated from a time when both cultures were co-existing
(until the Romans swallowed up the Etruscans) Either way, it's impressive.
I don't know how many thousands of people it could hold, but there are
several levels, with interior staircases leading up to the higher levels.
we wander through, looking for the access routes to the seating bowl,
discussing the meaning of 'vomitorium'. The signs outside the theater
refer to the staircases leading to the seating area as 'vomitoria'. I
think this is wrong and that a vomitorium is the opening where people
enter the seating area, but that it has to open up into the middle of
the seats, not at the top or bottom. Either way, I wonder why this was
built here. It's a full oval, not just half a hill with a stage as with
other amphitheaters. It seems like a lot of work to dig out the center
area and the seating area out of solid rock. Maybe it was a quarry first.
Immediately next door is a Mithrean temple (pagan bull worshippers) in
a cave carved out of the hill. It became a Christian Temple eventually
and all round it are Etruscan tombs carved out of the hill as well. Apparently
the Etruscan liked to be buried along the road, and this must have been
a busy road, because there are tons of tombs. We hike up above the amphitheater
to get the view from above, tour the Mithreum, and then decide it's time
for lunch.
We drive into Sutri in search of a restaurant that Maureen and Franco
have read about in Slow Food before. Our first attempt to get into town
is not so successful. We follow the signs for the Medieval town. However
the road is tiny and twisting (even more than usual!!) and eventually
comes to a hairpin switch back. There's only one problem...no car could
possibly make the turn. It's a three point maneuver in very tight quarters.
We circle around and find a better access point. As we are waling through
the centro to find the restaurant, the rain picks up. It's a nice town,
but we are on a mission...less rain and more lunch.
We find the place, called I believe Bottarga del Saturno, on the other
side of the centro, down a hill and in a basement. But it smells good
and comes well reviewed. We try to eat light. They have a particular local
soup that we decide to try. I can't remember the name, but it's lots of
fresh vegetables (favas!!) and the very odd ingredient of pig skin. Pig
skin is not something I am familiar with, but in this soup, it's an opaque
tendon like piece the size of a fried pork rind. It doesn't actually taste
like much, but picks up the flavor of the broth and actually tastes pretty
good, but the consistency is not for me. The rest of the soup is really
good. I also get a piece of tonino (or is it tomino?) cheese baked in
the oven over a piece of radicchio. It's incredibly hot, but once I can
get it into my mouth, very tasty. I scavenge off of mom's cheese plate
and am quite happy. And we have some wine. Wine with lunch may be my downfall....
After a good, but not spectacular meal, we head back to the cars. On the
way we pass a woman selling, nuts and dried fruits. She also has large
vats of beans. Maureen and Franco decide to introduce us to a new delicacy.
Lupino beans (I had never heard of them before) are large (almost as big
as fava beans or huge lima beans) and yellow. They marinate them in water
and somehow the bean develops a hard casing. You take a bunch of them
in a plastic bag, shake a bunch of salt on them, and then eat them as
a snack. Franco shows us the secret (he ate these as a child, growing
up). You bite off a side of the casing (and spit it out) then squeeze
the bean out of the rest of the casing and into your mouth. It's crunchy
and a little salty and not very good. I think they need more salt. I have
a gelato instead. The town of Sutri seems like it would be interesting,
but it's still overcast and drizzly so we move on. There are signs up
for a regional craft fair in a town called Volignano (I think that was
the town) a half hour away, so we cruise over. The town is built on a
very steep hill...we park at the base and head up. The fair is in a theater
and not terribly interesting. We spend a few minutes and then Franco,
Maureen, dad and I decide to explore the town a little. It's not very
pretty, but well situated. We climb up to the castle at the top of town,
it's closed, and admire the view of the country side. On our way back
down we take the back streets. And by streets I mean incredibly steep
and narrow walkways. This old part of town, which is totally residential,
is built around a maze of tiny staircases and paths. There is no way a
car or even a scooter could manage. I kind of like it. It's definitely
ancient. We get to the bottom and head out.
Dinner is at a fancy place in Civita called L'Altre Bottiglia (The Other
Bottle). It's just around the corner from the hotel and has a nice dining
room, a menu with local specialties, and a stellar wine list. They offer
several tasting menus and we order a variety of things. I have an appetizer
of fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta in a zucchini sauce. It's
light and tasty. Then I have a local specialty of pasta and beans. My
last course is another local specialty of lamb chops in egg sauce. I didn't
quite get what this was from the menu, but the sauce is whipped unsweetened
egg yolks. It's a little weird, and unfortunately not what I was expecting...so
it's not a success. Dad and Franco continue their competition to order
innards....dad has baked tripe. there's a reason you don't see baked tripe
on many menus. The food is good, but I'm not blown away (although I did
like the enormous...yard long...bread sticks), but the wine is enjoyable,
and it's good company. but I get tired and am ready to head home.
Tomorrow...more hill towns of Lazio?
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