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| Italy: Spring 2003: Saturday April 26: Day 4: San Benedetto del Tronto [Wedding Day] | ||||
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| San Benedetto del Tronto, Le Marche Saturday, April 26, 2003 Day 4 We spend the morning in the very handsome provincial town of Ascoli Piceno, about 30 kilometers inland from SBT. All three of us have been here before, but it is attractive enough to justify another visit. We take a quick look at the Duomo and start meandering through some back streets, then head for the main piazza, known as one of the most beautiful in Italy. On the way, we stop in a few shops--Jonathan needs to buy a card and envelope for Romina's wedding gift. We get a couple of recommendations from the tourist office (we impress the lady by knowing the names of several of the streets she points out) and one of them has the appropriate card. After we get the card, we buy a new road atlas--I haven't had a new one for at least three years and mine is somewhat out of date. Diana spends some time browsing in the market; she reports that the vegetables are just gorgeous. It is only 11 am but we are just around the corner from the porchetta stand where we had a delicious sandwich last November Even though it is early, Jonathan is ready to try one (in the interests of the comparative porchetta tasting) and Diana and I decide that we could probably split one as an appetizer. The porchetta man acknowledges us while we are waiting our turn...and slices us a couple of samples. We have hit the "porchetta" gold standard...warm, tender and incredibly tasty. He makes sandwiches for Jonathan and me and makes a half sandwich for Diana. We tell him that we had had his sandwiches last November and he professes to remember us. We eat our sandwiches while continuing our stroll through the back streets of Ascoli. We pass an embroidery store and Diana buys a couple of items; she claims that the woman was a master saleslady and that she couldn't resist. By now it is after noon and we decide to stop for lunch en route back to the hotel. I have a restaurant picked out in the town of Maltignano in the hills above Ascoli...they are famous for the local specialty of stuffed, deep friend olives. We drive to the town; the road is perched on a ridge with views over the Abruzzo countryside to the south--the snow capped peaks were just visible through the haze--and long vistas over Le Marche to the north--both sides filled with rolling farmland and hills towns. The restaurant is just where it is supposed to be and it is also open. Unfortunately when I ask the man behind the counter about lunch, he frowns. When I ask if we are too early, he says yes and that it would be better to come back "closer to 1 pm. It is now 12:30 and we think we have to be back at the hotel getting dressed by 2 pm, in order to get to the church by 3:30 pm, so we don't think we can risk waiting. We push on to the next town, which is in the Abruzzo....I am fascinated by its name--Controguerra--so we hope to stop there for a quick bite of lunch. (To tell you the truth, I am still full from the porchetta sandwiches, but it will be a long time until our next meal at the wedding reception.) However, we strike out in Controguerra...the few restaurant/bars that are there are either closed or just serve packaged sandwiches, so after a quick circuit of the town, we get back in the car and head down from the ridge to the hotel. We get dressed, but before we leave for the church, we see the groom's family standing in front of the hotel. It turns out that they have just finished taking their pictures and the photographer has just left for San Benedetto to photograph the bridal party. It is about 2:45 pm so there is no way that the bride will reach the church for a 4 pm start. The groom's brothers are all decked out in their newly bought Italian suits and shoes--very sharp. We hang around talking to them for a while and then we head out for the church. Jonathan stops to take some pictures of the church as we approach Offida; the church is set on top of a promontory at the edge of town and makes for a terrific photo opportunity as you can see it from far down the hill dominating the valley. We park right next to the church; we are the second car in the lot. The church dates from 1000 AD and has survived even through the German occupation in World War II. The wedding will take place in the crypt, a low ceilinged room with columns, frescoes and the bones of former priests in deep troughs--visible through plastic covers. It is very atmospheric and historic. We mingle with the other guests as they arrive. The bridal party pulls in not too long after 4; the bride and her father drive up to the church and she is able to avoid some (but not all) of the difficult steps in front of the church. However all the other eleganty dressed women and the grandmothers have to make the climb on their own. There are about 150 guests at the ceremony but only seats for half of them. The setting is very romantic but not very practical. Sight lines are poor and it is hard to hear. There are two priests--one speaks English--and the ceremony includes traditions from both Italy and the United States. But the bride is beautiful and the groom is handsome and they seem very happy. There is a string quartet playing lovely chamber music before and during the ceremony and Romina makes a nice speech of welcome and thanks. After the wedding, there is supposed to be a pre-reception get together at a local wine "library" (enoteca) so we head over there. Before we get there, we meet Desiree and Lio (friends of Romina) and they tell us that they were at the enoteca and it was closed. But when we stop at a bakery to buy some local treats, we ask the proprietor and she says she thinks that it is open. So we walk back and sure enough it is....but only two other people from the wedding come in. We have a nice bottle of local white wine with Lio and Desiree, whom we get along with very well. Then we return to the Villa Picena; by the time we get there, the buffet table of appetizers is open and the festivities have begun. The appetizer buffet is set up outside the house and is both extensive and delicious...prosciutto, salume, parmesan cheese, fried stuffed olives (olive d'ascolane), fried vegetables, fresh oysters, and other delicacies....we know that there is a full dinner to follow but it is all so delicious. Soon after, we are called into dinner. Thanks to Jonathan, here is the complete menu. Antipasti: Zuppa di Ceci, patate, e funghi (chickpea, potato, and mushroom soup). Bresaola noci grana e rucola (sliced cured beef with nuts, cheese, and arucola) Frattaglie strapazzate (diced liver cooked with eggs and onions, presented in a parmesan cheese shell) -- a traditional local wedding dish. I Primi Gnocchetti pomodorini e funghi (potato gnocchi with mushrooms and tomatoes) Fazzlettini ricotta e spinachi (egg crepes with ricotta cheese and spinach with a light cream sauces) Campofilone al ragu ( tagliatelle with a delicious meat sauce). I secondi Brasato di vitello con cicoria (thinly sliced veal with sauteed chicory). Gli Arrosti (Roast meats) Maialino, Agnello, Quaglietta (Grilled pork chops, lamb, and quail) Tris de verdure: melanzone, zucchine, e patate (grilled vegetable: eggplant, zucchini, and potatoes) Torta Nuziale (wedding cake) Buffet di dolci (sweets buffet) Napoleons, a strawberry cake, profiteroles, etc. Cascata di fruitta (waterfall of fruit) a five foot tall display of fresh fruit. Strawberries, kiwi, pineapple, etc. I can't personally vouch for anything after the third pasta...although others at our table thought the potatoes were outstanding. It was impossible to put anything else in my mouth--except for a few profiteroles with chocolate sauce (I forced myself.) What I did eat was delicious...the servings were anything but small so I tried to only eat half of what was on my plate, even if I wanted more. I still missed almost half the dishes. And I of course vowed that I would never eat again...... By around midnight, just after dessert, we are flagging and start to think about going. There has been music throughout the dinner--a singer with keyboard singing mostly American popular songs of the late 20th century and a four piece jazz combo who were very good. Almost no dancing except for the bride and groom's traditional first dance. The father of the groom danced a few numbers and there was an older Italian man who must have been a professional. We say our goodbyes and go up to our room. The next morning Jonathan reports that he had stayed until the end...about 2:30 am.....along with the bride and groom's family (including Romina's 87 year old grandmother). We are happy that we were able to come and celebrate with Romina and Thomas. It was a fascinating cross-cultural experience as well as a beautiful wedding. |
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