Day 17: Massa Marittima
[5/12/02: We are back home....we flew back yesterday (Saturday) but I am still a few reports behind. I plan to finish in the next few days. It was a terrific trip. Jim]
This morning we explore the centro storico of Massa Marittima. The weather is sunny as we drive the car down the hill and park in the very convenient lot just below the Duomo. The cathedral is as impressive inside as it is from the outside. The light is especially nice as it comes through the distinctive oval shaped clear windows behind the altar. There are some well preserved frescoes on the side walls and the whole interior decoration is more restrained than many cathedrals that we have visited.
Outside people are gathering--tourists and townspeople--for a demonstration of flag throwing by the town's flag throwing group. This is a special activity that is common to many Italian towns; it is a historic version of baton-twirling--large flags on weighted poles are unfurled, thrown into the air and caught before they hit the ground. Today's demonstration is to show off the brand new uniforms that the group has just received. The uniforms are rich purple and gold velvet medieval costumes, with all manner of gold decoration and pictures.
We take seats on the steps of the cathedral and watch as the group--flagwavers and medieval band--warms up and then stroll to the other side of the town to start the procession. The band creates a great sound and the procession is quite spectacular as the group files into the main square from the narrow street. The captain of the squad puts on an exhibition, where he starts by tossing one banner and works his way up to four at the time--using both arms and his legs to catch and throw the flags.
After that, we see a group demonstration, where eight flag throwers put on a show involving throwing flags to each other in an intricate routine. There are a few close calls, but none of the flags hit the pavement. Unfortunately, during the routine, the sky begins to cloud up and a steady drizzle ensues; fearful of damaging their new costumes, they quickly end the show and race for cover.
We head for the car and head out of town to explore the coast to the south of Massa Marittima. We drive through a peaceful green valley on a back road towards the sea and then take the coast road out of Follonica to two beach resorts--Punta Ala and Castiglione della Pescaia.
We are not able to see the water because of the thick pine forest--"la pineta"-- separates the road from the beach, but there are many paths that lead from the road, through the pine grove to the beach. The road heads inland and we catch our first glimpses--on this trip--of Italian prostitutes. They're from Africa and they are sitting?by themselves--on folding chairs in rest areas just off the road. We have seen them on previous trips on the roadside near factories or commercial strips, but this is on a Sunday afternoon on the road to the beach.
Punta Ala, the first beach resort that we come to, is organized like the beach resorts on Hilton Head and Kiawah Island. There are commericial areas, recreation areas, and housing and hotel areas, all radiating off a central road. Access to the water and the harbor are strictly controlled and preference is given to residents for preferred parking near the water.
We drive around a bit but are frustrated in our attempt to get a peek at the beach and waterfront. On our way out, we stop by the side of the road and take one of those paths through the pine wood to the beach. It is a very nice sandy beach, that stretches around the long bay for miles. The water is extremely clean and the beach is nicely kept-- one of the most pleasant waterfront stretches we have seen in Italy. We sit on the beach for a while and then head further south to the next resort--Castiglione della Pescaia.
Castiglione is a completely different type of resort....it was (and still is) a fishing village and has a walled "centro storico" on the hillside above the port. The waterfront and the new town adjacent to the water are very low key--there are some hotels and many restaurants. We park and stroll along the dock looking for a place to have lunch. We stop at a large restaurant-pizzeria which sits right on the beach and get a table with the view of the water. Diana orders a pizza, which is just okay, and I have a plate of spaghetti alle vongole--which is also just okay; it doesn't compare to the same dish that I had for lunch the day before. We share a caprese salad--the mozzarella tastes as if it were the fancier cheese that is made from water buffalo milk; I like it but the consistency is a bit wet for Diana. This lunch is not intended to be an eating adventure....we wanted to eat in a nice setting in a short time for not too much money.
After lunch, we walk down the beach and eat some gelato, sitting on a bench overlooking the water; on this trip, the big surprise in the gelato department has been the "limone"--it has been very tart and very refreshing.
We continue south along the coast, but the road veers away from the water, so after driving through a couple more towns, we decide to head back to Massa on the fast road. To pick up the fast road, we have to go to the provincial capital--Grosseto. I take the opportunity to take a quick spin around the center of town on this quiet Sunday afternoon. Grosseto is not considered much of a tourist attraction, but the town still has its walls surrounding the town and some pedestrian-only areas in the old town--it certainly doesn't look too bad.
We pick up the SS 1 (called the Via Aurelia) from the old Roman road system; it is a limited access highway on this stretch and we make the drive back to Massa Marittima (about 25 miles) in 20 minutes. Before climbing back up the hill to town, we stop at one of the odder tourist attractions we have seen in Italy (or elsewhere). The Center for the Saving of Turtles--known as CARAPAX, and its associated organization, the Center for the Saving of Storks are located on a back road between Massa M. and Follonica and they are open to visitors. This is an international volunteer organization that is trying to re-establish species of turtles and storks, as well as a local strain of donkey that is endangered. They also nurse sick turtles back to health. You walk about a mile from the main road to a series of ponds, green houses, and fenced off areas where the turtles are fed and protected until they are ready to be put back in the wild. You walk past these pens and look at the turtles; they are very difficult to spot on land; since those are the first areas you walk past, I had the feeling that this might be a gigantic rip-off. But the pools contain many turtles, a few swimming or climbing on the banks, but most of them just sitting there. Diana thinks this is a gigantic joke - like watching paint dry.
The stork area is more compelling. There is a large netted structure draped off a tall central pole that serves as an aviary for this specie of stork, whose migration pattern from Africa to Europe had been disturbed by changes in the enviroment. This area provided a safe haven for the birds as they re-establish the traditional migration route. The storks are something to see--flying inside and outside the aviary--as well as making their nests on pole top platforms. The local donkeys have the additional responsibility
of keeping wolves away from the storks and they add a large amount of noise to the refuge with their constant braying. All in all, a very odd tourist attraction.....
It has been a long day so we head out for dinner at 7:30; we go a large restaurant-pizzeria overlooking the valley called Le Mura (it is set in the city walls). We are not the only ones with the idea of eating early; the place is packed--and the only tables available are in the back, without a view. We take it....Dinner is very fast--the staff is very efficient. We have some very good pasta--large tortelli in butter and sage for Diana and pici (local fat pasta) with a tasty ragu for me. Diana has a bruschetta with olive oil and garlic to start; to us, it is very untraditional--it is made with one gigantic slice of bread. It looks like a big open faced sandwich and is not the most appealing version of bruschetta. I also have grilled sausages done on the open fire. The meal was pleasant and quite reasonable and we are satisfied to be heading back to the hotel for an early night.
Tomorrow we will take the ferry to Elba.
Diana and Jim
PS from Diana: As you've gathered, on some of Jim's excursions (up the tower, up and down some hills) and on some other occasions, I instead relaxed and read. May I highly recommend
--A Hole in the Earth by Robert Bausch (a wondeful novel by a VA writer, about family, relationships and a father struggling to get to a better place),
--White Teeth by Zadie Smith (a big first novel that's been widely reviewed, so you probably know it, about three cultures and families in London), and
--The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay by Michael Chabon (also widely reviewed, about NY Jewish comic books creators, the Holocaust, escape and the American dream).
Reading them added to making this a fine vacation.
This morning we explore the centro storico of Massa Marittima. The weather is sunny as we drive the car down the hill and park in the very convenient lot just below the Duomo. The cathedral is as impressive inside as it is from the outside. The light is especially nice as it comes through the distinctive oval shaped clear windows behind the altar. There are some well preserved frescoes on the side walls and the whole interior decoration is more restrained than many cathedrals that we have visited.
Outside people are gathering--tourists and townspeople--for a demonstration of flag throwing by the town's flag throwing group. This is a special activity that is common to many Italian towns; it is a historic version of baton-twirling--large flags on weighted poles are unfurled, thrown into the air and caught before they hit the ground. Today's demonstration is to show off the brand new uniforms that the group has just received. The uniforms are rich purple and gold velvet medieval costumes, with all manner of gold decoration and pictures.
We take seats on the steps of the cathedral and watch as the group--flagwavers and medieval band--warms up and then stroll to the other side of the town to start the procession. The band creates a great sound and the procession is quite spectacular as the group files into the main square from the narrow street. The captain of the squad puts on an exhibition, where he starts by tossing one banner and works his way up to four at the time--using both arms and his legs to catch and throw the flags.
After that, we see a group demonstration, where eight flag throwers put on a show involving throwing flags to each other in an intricate routine. There are a few close calls, but none of the flags hit the pavement. Unfortunately, during the routine, the sky begins to cloud up and a steady drizzle ensues; fearful of damaging their new costumes, they quickly end the show and race for cover.
We head for the car and head out of town to explore the coast to the south of Massa Marittima. We drive through a peaceful green valley on a back road towards the sea and then take the coast road out of Follonica to two beach resorts--Punta Ala and Castiglione della Pescaia.
We are not able to see the water because of the thick pine forest--"la pineta"-- separates the road from the beach, but there are many paths that lead from the road, through the pine grove to the beach. The road heads inland and we catch our first glimpses--on this trip--of Italian prostitutes. They're from Africa and they are sitting?by themselves--on folding chairs in rest areas just off the road. We have seen them on previous trips on the roadside near factories or commercial strips, but this is on a Sunday afternoon on the road to the beach.
Punta Ala, the first beach resort that we come to, is organized like the beach resorts on Hilton Head and Kiawah Island. There are commericial areas, recreation areas, and housing and hotel areas, all radiating off a central road. Access to the water and the harbor are strictly controlled and preference is given to residents for preferred parking near the water.
We drive around a bit but are frustrated in our attempt to get a peek at the beach and waterfront. On our way out, we stop by the side of the road and take one of those paths through the pine wood to the beach. It is a very nice sandy beach, that stretches around the long bay for miles. The water is extremely clean and the beach is nicely kept-- one of the most pleasant waterfront stretches we have seen in Italy. We sit on the beach for a while and then head further south to the next resort--Castiglione della Pescaia.
Castiglione is a completely different type of resort....it was (and still is) a fishing village and has a walled "centro storico" on the hillside above the port. The waterfront and the new town adjacent to the water are very low key--there are some hotels and many restaurants. We park and stroll along the dock looking for a place to have lunch. We stop at a large restaurant-pizzeria which sits right on the beach and get a table with the view of the water. Diana orders a pizza, which is just okay, and I have a plate of spaghetti alle vongole--which is also just okay; it doesn't compare to the same dish that I had for lunch the day before. We share a caprese salad--the mozzarella tastes as if it were the fancier cheese that is made from water buffalo milk; I like it but the consistency is a bit wet for Diana. This lunch is not intended to be an eating adventure....we wanted to eat in a nice setting in a short time for not too much money.
After lunch, we walk down the beach and eat some gelato, sitting on a bench overlooking the water; on this trip, the big surprise in the gelato department has been the "limone"--it has been very tart and very refreshing.
We continue south along the coast, but the road veers away from the water, so after driving through a couple more towns, we decide to head back to Massa on the fast road. To pick up the fast road, we have to go to the provincial capital--Grosseto. I take the opportunity to take a quick spin around the center of town on this quiet Sunday afternoon. Grosseto is not considered much of a tourist attraction, but the town still has its walls surrounding the town and some pedestrian-only areas in the old town--it certainly doesn't look too bad.
We pick up the SS 1 (called the Via Aurelia) from the old Roman road system; it is a limited access highway on this stretch and we make the drive back to Massa Marittima (about 25 miles) in 20 minutes. Before climbing back up the hill to town, we stop at one of the odder tourist attractions we have seen in Italy (or elsewhere). The Center for the Saving of Turtles--known as CARAPAX, and its associated organization, the Center for the Saving of Storks are located on a back road between Massa M. and Follonica and they are open to visitors. This is an international volunteer organization that is trying to re-establish species of turtles and storks, as well as a local strain of donkey that is endangered. They also nurse sick turtles back to health. You walk about a mile from the main road to a series of ponds, green houses, and fenced off areas where the turtles are fed and protected until they are ready to be put back in the wild. You walk past these pens and look at the turtles; they are very difficult to spot on land; since those are the first areas you walk past, I had the feeling that this might be a gigantic rip-off. But the pools contain many turtles, a few swimming or climbing on the banks, but most of them just sitting there. Diana thinks this is a gigantic joke - like watching paint dry.
The stork area is more compelling. There is a large netted structure draped off a tall central pole that serves as an aviary for this specie of stork, whose migration pattern from Africa to Europe had been disturbed by changes in the enviroment. This area provided a safe haven for the birds as they re-establish the traditional migration route. The storks are something to see--flying inside and outside the aviary--as well as making their nests on pole top platforms. The local donkeys have the additional responsibility
of keeping wolves away from the storks and they add a large amount of noise to the refuge with their constant braying. All in all, a very odd tourist attraction.....
It has been a long day so we head out for dinner at 7:30; we go a large restaurant-pizzeria overlooking the valley called Le Mura (it is set in the city walls). We are not the only ones with the idea of eating early; the place is packed--and the only tables available are in the back, without a view. We take it....Dinner is very fast--the staff is very efficient. We have some very good pasta--large tortelli in butter and sage for Diana and pici (local fat pasta) with a tasty ragu for me. Diana has a bruschetta with olive oil and garlic to start; to us, it is very untraditional--it is made with one gigantic slice of bread. It looks like a big open faced sandwich and is not the most appealing version of bruschetta. I also have grilled sausages done on the open fire. The meal was pleasant and quite reasonable and we are satisfied to be heading back to the hotel for an early night.
Tomorrow we will take the ferry to Elba.
Diana and Jim
PS from Diana: As you've gathered, on some of Jim's excursions (up the tower, up and down some hills) and on some other occasions, I instead relaxed and read. May I highly recommend
--A Hole in the Earth by Robert Bausch (a wondeful novel by a VA writer, about family, relationships and a father struggling to get to a better place),
--White Teeth by Zadie Smith (a big first novel that's been widely reviewed, so you probably know it, about three cultures and families in London), and
--The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay by Michael Chabon (also widely reviewed, about NY Jewish comic books creators, the Holocaust, escape and the American dream).
Reading them added to making this a fine vacation.
