Day 13: San Quirico d'Orcia

Our last full day in southern Tuscany and the weather is…..uncertain. There are tantalizing patches of blue peeking through the overcast.

We have a slow morning including a visit with Ulli, our landlady, who brings back the load of laundry she has kindly done for us.

Late in the morning, we decide to try to take a short walk off one of the white roads to see the Capella di Vitaleta, probably the most frequently photographed scene in southern Tuscany. As we head out, we notice that the main street of San Quirico d'Orcia is filled with stalls….it is market day. (I later learn that the market takes place on the 1st and 4th Tuesday of the month, and we have never coincided with it before). We stroll up and down the whole length of the market–Diana considers some linen and we look at some baby clothes–but we end up not buying anything.

The sun is breaking through a bit when we head for the countryside……but there are still threatening clouds overhead. The vistas are so broad that you can see as many as 7 hill towns at one time and you can check the differing weather conditions all around the valley.

We park the car, walk around the locked gate to the farm and approach the Cappella, which sits on a rise right next to a farmhouse. Unfortunately, on the way, the skies darken and rain looks imminent so Diana heads back to the car while I contine on to take my photograph. The rain holds off and I get my pictures…..both the traditional view from the front

and a less often seen perspective from the rear.

Mission accomplished, we see that the sun seems to be out in Pienza so we quickly drive over there planning to get a sandwich and have a picnic. Unfortunately, by the time we get to town, it has started to rain. We still have our picnic and our porchetta sandwich but we have to sit on the covered portico opposite the cathedral.

After lunch, we head to Buonconvento over the back roads, passing a big flock of sheep in the fields next to the road.

Since it is still raining, we visit the art museum in Buonconvento which is another nicely arranged collection of local artwork. Again we have the museum to ourselves and the works of the Sienese school of 15th and 16th century artists are very impressive.

After spending an hour or so in the museum, we stop at a local gelateria/pasticceria and have some excellent gelato and a delicious piece of cake. Then we head back to San Quirico d'Orcia for a rest. We have our final dinner back at Il Tinaio.

I have the always excellent zuppa di farro and a rabbit dish "in the etruscan style" with olives. Diana has an unusual dish called "percorino fuso con i pignoli"–a plate of melted cheese served with pine nuts…..and a piece of the fabulous cauliflower flan. I can't leave town without a final "perfect" panna cotta…..which unfortunately may spoil me for other panna cotta in the future.

We say goodbye to "our" waiter and the owner and, on the walk home, notice that there are stars in sky.